Forget those questionable homemade concoctions! South Australian distilleries are seizing the moment, crafting their own versions of limoncello and riding the wave of its global resurgence. This zesty liqueur, born in the sun-drenched regions of southern Italy, is more than just a drink; it's a taste of tradition, often enjoyed as an aperitif or digestif.
Chloe Reschke-Maguire, Executive Officer of Distillers South Australia, with her Italian heritage, highlights the cultural significance. She explains how limoncello was often a family affair, a gesture of warmth and hospitality, a tradition that saw families hand-picking lemons, crafting the liqueur together, and culminating in a shared feast. "The actual production of the spirit is steeped in culture and tradition," she emphasizes.
And this is the part most people miss... the numbers. Reschke-Maguire notes the drink's rising popularity worldwide, and it's certainly making its mark in South Australia. "You're seeing it here [too], it's being poured in a lot of cocktails," she says. In fact, a significant portion of local distilleries are now producing their own limoncello. "There's over 100 distilleries in South Australia, and I could say very confidently that about 25 per cent of those have limoncello products."
But here's where it gets controversial... the production methods. While traditional limoncello uses lemon peel steeped in a high-quality grain spirit, South Australian distillers are putting their own spin on it. Given the region's renowned wine production, many are opting for a neutral grape spirit instead.
Finn Healey, Managing Director of Ambra Spirits, based in Adelaide, attributes the demand to consumers yearning for a taste of the Mediterranean. "The Australian palate and consumer loves the lemon-forward, well-balanced, kind of sweet, bubbly drink, especially in the sun during summer," he says. Ambra Spirits uses a 100-year-old family recipe, a legacy of founder Libero De Luca, who brought the secrets back from the Amalfi Coast.
Healey notes that about 70 percent of their lemons, sourced from the Riverland, are hand-peeled, with peeling season running from April to September. They process about a tonne every fortnight!
Paul Burnett, head stiller at 23rd Street Distillery, also in the Riverland, has crafted his limoncello using grape spirit and local lemons. After experimenting with cane and grain spirits, he found the grape spirit to be the perfect match. "Because we have a fortified program, we're always using a neutral spirit or brandy," he explains, "It blended in beautifully with that liquid sugar and the lemons to produce this final product."
After experimenting with different lemon varieties, Burnett settled on Eureka lemons from a grower in Bookpurnong. "Everything I read about them suggested they'd be the mellow lemon that would be able to rival the Amalfi lemons of Italy," he says. Producing a small 1,000-bottle batch is no small feat, requiring the labor of about six people. After steeping the alcohol on the skins for three days, the result is a 23 percent proof product. "When we first blended it, we quite liked that appearance, as it looked really natural, just like how Nana used to make it," he says.
Zero-Waste Goals
While the grape spirit is a byproduct of wine production, the distilleries are now tackling the challenge of what to do with the leftover lemon peels.
Burnett mentions that 23rd Street has explored options like lemon puree for their menu dishes and lemon juice for cocktails. "I like gin and soda or martinis, so utilising dehydrated fruit in cocktails and drinks with gin is probably the next adventure," he says.
Healey says Ambra offers the lemons to local venues for use in cocktails and beers and is exploring partnerships with food waste organizations like OzHarvest. "It doesn't matter how many bars you give buckets of lemons to, you are still going to have a mountain left," he says. "We're trying to come up with as many ideas as possible to upcycle the spent lemon."
What do you think? Are you a fan of limoncello? Do you prefer the traditional grain spirit or the South Australian grape spirit versions? What creative ways can you think of to use the leftover lemon peels? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
